Pre-ride Bike Inspection
Regular bike maintenance is the key to a more enjoyable bicycle experience and will ensure the longevity of your investment. Bicycles are run by cables, bearings, plates and other metal on metal mechanisms. Without regular cleaning, lubing, greasing and adjusting your bicycle will deteriorate very quickly.
1. Brakes
Check your brake lever freeplay. Once squeezed, your brake levers should move approximately 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches before engagement. You should be able to lock the wheels without having to pull the brake lever very close or all the way to the handlebar. Check your brake pads for wear and foreign objects embedded in them. If the pads are getting thin or are deteriorating, replace them before you ride. Inspect the brake cables to make sure they are free moving and not frayed.
If you have a hydraulic brake system consult your owner's manual or link to their respective web sites for technical information. If they do not "feel right" they probably have air in the lines and you should deal with this before you ride.
2. Tires
Use a pressure gauge to be sure your tires are within the recommended pressure range written on the sidewall of the tire. Check the tires for cuts, cracks, bulges and bald patches. Make sure that your brake pads do not make contact with the tire.
3. Wheels
Spin the wheels to check for trueness. Shake the wheels from side to side to make sure the hub bearings are not loose. Inspect the rims for dents, splits, dings and bulges. Feel the shape of the rim's sidewall to make sure that it is not significantly concave (curved inward). Once a rim bcomes concave it should be replaced immediately.
4. Handlebars, stem and headset
Stand in front of your bike with the front wheel between your legs. Attempt to twist the handlebars from side to side. If the stem can be moved, tighten it before you ride. Hold your brake levers and attempt to roll them forward and back. If bars or brake levers are loose, tighten them. Next, straddle your bike's top tube, squeeze the front brake and rock the bike in a pushpull manner. If you feel or hear a looseness or clunking from your headset bearings, tighten before you ride.
5. Chain
Spin your chain and inspect for any links that are frozen together. Spray frozen links with a citrus penetrating spray lube and work the chain side to side to free the corrosion that is holding the chain plates together. If the chain is dry, lube it!
6. Gears
With the rear wheel off the ground, spin the cranks and cycle through your gears. Make sure every gear is possible and that the chain does not fall off the rear cogs or the front chain rings. Visually inspect the rear derailleur to make sure it has not been bent in an accident. Even a few millimeters could cause the derailleur to over shift into the spokes of the rear wheel. If your rear derailleur hanger is replaceable and it has been bent, replace it.
7. Crank arms and bottom bracket bearings
Grab each crank arm and pull from side to side. If you feel any looseness, check the tightness of the crank bolts. Check again -- if the looseness persists then it is the bottom bracket which is loose and repair or replacement is needed.
8. Seat and seat post
Grab the seat and attempt to make the seat and/or post move up and down or side to side. Even if it's a little loose, tighten it before you ride. If you have a suspension seat post, it may be normal to have a little play or looseness, but suspension posts have adjustments to minimize this play.
9. Frame and forks
Inspect the frame for any impact damage or cracking around the welds. If you find any, replace or repair the frame, but DO NOT ride it. Do the same inspection for the forks.
If you have a full suspension frame you must check all pivot bolts for tightness. Also check your owner's manual or manufacturer's web site as full suspension pivots must be cleaned and lubricated on a very regular basis.
If you have suspension forks consult your owners manual or link to the manufacturer's web site where exact specifications may be found. It is critical that your suspension forks are operating properly because even one ride could inflict severe damage. All suspension forks need to be overhauled on a regular schedule.